The Gypsy culture affecting Lacroix

The Gypsy

The Romani/ Gypsy dispersed with their largest concentrated populations in Europe espicially the Roma of Central and Eastern Europe with more recent diaspora populations in the Americas and, to a lesser extent, in other parts of the world.

The Romani are also called as Gypsy as they were fist misunderstand by the european as the Egyptian. However, they think this is a discrimination, and they think they are the off-spring of Roman.

They are knowed as a group of people with mystery, where they know augury and work as the dancer/prostitute to entertain the european nobles in the 15th century.They are also called the starter of the flamenco.

(ref:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romani_people)


The Gypsy women


The style/ look of the Gypsy women is long curly hair, with a fringed headscarf/Bandana, hoop earring, large matel bracelet /bangle, metal/silver necklace...

And their clothes are in vibrant colour, with various hue with high chroma.

Patterned skirts in textured fabrics with golden/matel trimming, embroidery farbric, chiffon long dress,gypsy blouses, waist cinchers, scarves, shawls and sashes , bolero (something like the short bolero wear by the bull-fighter) are also the charactice of Gypsy women....
It has once been very popular as a halloween dress up in mid- 19th centry....


(ref:http://hk.knowledge.yahoo.com/question/question?qid=7007051701789)

We can see that the Gypsy style is alway using the principle of novelty, which is not a natural colour, like gold, fuchsia, lime yellow, violet,magenta....which can easily catch people' s attention, as the Gypsy, that I mentioned before the culture of them are work as a dance, an entertainer...that's why a performer will dress as eyecatching as they can...//

The Gypsy in 19th centry, by La Traviata

In the above video, we can see the clothes of the gypsy women..

usually are red and black with golden trimming...just like the dress worn by flamenco dancers..

As Christian Lacroix love the Spanish culture, and the theatre and like watching musical and opera, where some musical like Carmen/La Traviata ...these kind of musical 's background is in the 18th/ 19th century of europe nobles.. thus , we can also see Lacroix's collection has the element of Gypsy culture...

Spring 2008 Couture

Spring 2009 Couture

The above , Lacroix use the principle of novelty, to catch the eye of the audience...by using blue, fuchsia and violet, gold with red....this shows how he affected by the Gypsy...

The traditional costume of spain

西班牙傳統服飾,就像西班牙人的熱情開朗,有著豐富且強烈對比色彩。較為人所熟知的是南部安達魯西亞地區(身著豔麗色彩,大波浪裙擺及袖口的傳統服飾)Flamenco佛朗明哥舞者。其實在其他區也有許多頗具地方特色的傳統服飾與舞蹈。這些各地區獨特的地方性傳統服飾,加上好動開朗西班牙人有著濃厚民族色彩的音樂,形成了非常吸引人的西班牙傳統舞蹈。尤其是在節慶活動時,更可看到因區域、人文、氣候、歷史條件下所發展出各具特色的傳統服飾與舞蹈。. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 我們以區域來分成幾個較具代表性的服飾、舞蹈類別,逐一介紹如下:

(1)西北部沿海地區......包括了GALICIA加利西亞、CANTABRIA甘達布里省、PAIS VASCO巴斯克各省,此地區為多雨溼潤的地帶,由無數河川切割成的峽谷及山巒組成。其中以加利西亞省有著最多樣化的傳統服飾。當地婦女為方便於工作,穿著不是很長的裙子(以呢料之紅、綠、棕色或紫色的裙子居多),上面裝飾有黑色帶狀條紋,以及飾有絲帶或玻璃珠的圍裙。白色麻布襯衫,黑色或暗藍色呢料背心,加上一條披肩在胸前交叉,繞過肩後,以銀製別針固定。頭上用頭巾包裹。男士則穿著呢料短褲,裝飾華麗的背心,以及絲絨質或呢料外套,亞麻襯衫及羊毛帽。此地區其地方服飾樣式,大體上大同小異。而舞蹈方面則為一種帶有古代戰舞風格,舞蹈時由幾對男女舞者共舞,以直線平移舞步,多變化的舞蹈動作組成,一種強烈情緒表達的舞蹈。. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

(2)中西部地區......包含了CASTILLA Y LEON卡斯提亞萊昂自冶區及EXTREMADURA愛斯德雷馬都拉自冶區一帶。此地區地形惡劣,為乾燥的高原及臺地地形,造成在靠天吃飯的早期農耕時代,耕作困難,只夠自給自足的微薄收成。且每個村子間相隔都很遠。但特別的是在服飾風格表現上,女性服飾卻有,極鮮豔活潑的色彩及繁複的裝飾,斑瀾華麗的外衣和富麗的首飾裝扮。男性服飾中以,SALAMANCA薩拉曼卡省最獨特。被稱為"charro"的男性服飾,樣式簡樸,在粗獷中又不失其高雅。可說是西班牙男性服飾中最具代表性的型式。棉質白襯衫上有刺繡花樣及牛骨製鈕釦,紫鵝絨布花紋寬領口背心,飾有銀質鈕釦,毛料有流蘇的寬腰帶,以及毛質穿戴至小腿的鞋套。有時還會戴頂毛料的寬帽緣帽子,在帽杯及帽緣下分別有仿天鵝絨花紋裝飾。此地區舞蹈風格為寫實曲調,表達出人民簡樸生活與心靈感受。以七孔豎笛"la dulzaina"及一種掛在手臂上用小鼓棒敲打的小鼓"el tamboril"兩種樂器,伴奏著手執響板"las castanuelas"起舞的舞者。在許多慶典中都可聽到身背小鼓,手執豎笛穿著傳統服飾的老人,穿梭在酒吧、小巷中吹奏出時而悲傷,時而快樂的鼓聲笛響,曲調中依稀可以體會出,有如在一片廣闊黃土上生活的牧人、農夫間所發生的總總心情故事。. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

(3)中心地區Castilla la Vieja...... 包括現今的Comunidad de Madrid馬德里自冶區北部一帶。同樣是乾燥一望無際的黃土,但因地處西班牙國土中心位置,幾個世紀以來,許多君王都選擇這裡作為帝國首都,另外在中世紀時為抵抗北非摩爾人的入侵,而遺留下許多城堡遺跡。此地區的女性傳統服飾,為單色毛料裙,上有黑色條紋飾帶。或是黑色、彩色繡花圖案裙。黑色毛料頭巾,頸上掛有金銀或珊瑚製鏈飾,及圓形浮雕飾物和聖物匣。耳上戴有華麗的金質耳環。男性傳統服飾,多為黑色或棕色暗色系外套,及長度及膝的褲子。此地區的傳統舞蹈呈現莊嚴而緩慢的舞步。 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (


(4)中南部地區Castilla la Nueva...... 包括馬德里自冶區南部及首都馬德里MADRID。馬德里自冶區南部男女服飾與中心地區Castilla la Vieja服飾大同小異,其中比較特別的是首都馬德里在十九世紀末二十世紀初的服飾,女性穿著長裙(臀部束緊合身,下裙襬則很寬大,有時飾以很多的褶邊),上衣則有著燈籠狀袖口,肩膀披有彩色繡花及流蘇的絲質披巾。這種繡滿精緻五彩花朵紋飾的披巾,成為西班牙傳統服飾中最有特色最具代表性的飾物。男性服飾為黑色或棕色外套,方格子緊身長褲,有條紋飾的襯衫,頸上打有小圍巾,頭戴圓頂禮帽或有帽舌的便帽。馬德里在十九世紀末二十世紀初,流行一種叫"chotis"的舞蹈。它源自蘇格蘭,起初流行於上流社會,不久即普遍流傳於民間,蔚為風氣。之後融入馬德里人的生活並以手搖風琴節拍配合舞蹈,蛻變為當時最能代表馬德里特色的舞蹈。

(ref: http://hk.knowledge.yahoo.com/question/question?qid=7007030403327)

Cultural colour of spain

As we know Christian Lacroix is deeply inpreesed by spanish culture, as he lives in the southern part of france and he always get at around in the gypsy and Mediterranean region....
So..let us take a look on spainish culture and how it affect his fashion collection.......



The culture of Spain is an Iberian culture marked by the period of Roman influences. In the areas of language and religion, the Ancient Romans left a lasting legacy. The subsequent course of Spanish history also added elements to the country's cultural development.
(ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culture_of_Spain)






The Flag of Spain:


The main colour of the national flag of spain is an agressive colour, red and yellow and the accent colour is a receding colour of white and blue.

Red and yellow is an adjacent colour,the two colour come form the idea of bull-fight:
Red represent the blood of the bull- fighter

Yellow represent the ground at the place where bull-fight take place (鬥牛場)

(ref:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_of_Spain)

We can always see Lacroix use this combination in his collection and in his Brand.



The bag of Lacroix's shop

Lacroix's shop

Lacroix's official web site

We can see the main colour use in Lacroix shop, its shopping bag to its web site is using the colour in the mational flag of spain, the yellow and red...it shows how spainish culture affect Christian Lacroix..

Spring Couture 2008

Spring Couture 2009

S/S RTW 2007

Christian Lacroix, S/S RTW 2007

Achromatic Colour Scheme

Complementry Colour

red, blue and yellow are primary colour, with the same high chroma, it gives a bright feeling, and it is eye-catching...

The combination of yellow and magenta are complementery colour, it is eye-catching, and gives a summer and modern feeling....

Red,black and white

This combination of color is usuallly seen in Lacroix's work, it is some of the culture influence of spanish that make him love to use this combination of colour in his collection///

Class Exercise -colour theories and principle application on fashion collection

Before learning the colour theory....

(click for larger image)
The collection is using the earth tone colour, like grey , khaki, light yellow, light brown , and want to show a raw and primitive feeling..

(The principle of familiarity is used, as the gray, khaki,brown are the earth colour, like the ground and mountain, where they are the nature colour, and creates harmony in this collection.)

After learn the colour theory...

This collection is using the triad colour scheme, the combination like, orange/blue/red, purple/green/red, blue,/red/green , are using the colour 120 degree around the colour wheel, Also, the colour used is in high chroma but different hue, it gives a lively, mordern and young feeling, it will be a young summer collection, with various hue and high chroma...

Christian Lacroix F/W RTW 08

large picture-->http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a215/murasaki_sakura/ALL2.jpg

We can see the whole collection uses black, gold, fuchsia , white and grey as the main colour, and green orange and lime yellow as the accent colour.

Thus, the whole collection is using the same chroma(i.e high chrome), but different hue (i.e. deep pink , lime yellow, orange) , match with the main colour, black.

We can also see the flow of the collection :
white -->black &deep pink--> black & grey(Anchromatic Scheme )--> gold & red & black --> gold & black--> lime yellow--> orange --> fuchsia.....

Which it is bright sharp colour ( white/deep pink) at first, then ratherdull colour....like black, grey, then gold , red ..which has a classic / old feeling.. and the last 5 outfits are sigle bright, vivid, high chrome colour.. like orange, lime red.. which gives a young and modern feeling.

The colour theories applied this collection:

Achrometic Scheme:










Analogous Color combination:

Same high chroma, but different hue.(All are bright colour)
It gives a modern feeling.

This Outfit is using the same low chroma but different value.

And he use of tertiary colour, like sea green, kharki. And a Primary colour , red.